Sunday, November 30, 2008

Removing Ball python / snake eye caps video

As I said before, if your Ball Python still has his eye caps on after his shed, you can just leave your Ball Python alone. They don't rely on their eye sight as much as they do with their sense of smell.

If you really want to remove your ball python's eye caps, have someone experienced do it for you.

Let me repeat, nothing will go wrong if your ball python has retained his eye caps after a bad shed. The best thing you could do is make sure his temps and humidity levels are all perfect. See our Ball Python Care guide for info on what the Ball python's cage should be.

Here is a video, if you ever have to remove your ball python or any snake's eye cap, demonstrating a good way on how to remove the eye caps. Never use tape, never use tweezers, never use any pressure or anything that could harm your ball python's eyes.





This man is experienced, if you aren't or you have shaky hands, just leave your Ball Python alone rather than risk him getting hurt or stressed. Again, nothing will go wrong if your ball python has retained his eye caps, so think about that before you decide to remove it yourself.

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Ball Python Vs Dog

How does the Ball Python compare in terms of cost, initial and upkeep, vs a dog.

Ball Python costs
Initial cost :
Normal morph Ball Python - $20-100 (100 being extremely over priced)
Water Dish - Free - $12.99
Thermometer + Hygrometer - $12.99
Hides - Free-$20 for 2.
Screen cover -
$17.99 (for 30 gallon aquariums)
Substrate - Free-$6.49 to 24.99 (depending on amount. Resuseable, but recommended to soak in scolding hot water, or replace every 5 months.)
Undertank Heater - $34.99
Basking lamp - $8.49 to 19.99
Feeding tongs - $9.49
Aquarium or tub-$10 -$159.99 (depends if you want a display habitat, or just something that you can use to keep your Ball Python in)

Ball Python Total initial cost : $143.43 - 303.43 (depends on Aquarium or tub)

Monthly Upkeep : $4-6 for mice or rats. Depends on where you live, and the age of your ball python. Baby Ball Pythons only eat once a week, once every two weeks for older Ball Pythons.

Other upkeep costs
Every 5 months : Substrate : Free-$6.49 to 24.99.
Vet - at least once a year. Price depends on vet and snake


Dog..we'll go with a Shih Tzu
Initial cost:
Shih Tzu - $250-500, no idea how much the high quality show types cost.
Dog accessories - depends on person. We'll leave this at...$200 (that's the most I'd spend on dog toys, collars etc)
Dog training/obedience - I googled "cost of obedience school for dog" and it was crazy....
4 week class-$50
15 week "puppy pre school" - $100
a six week"Canine CHARM school"(wtf?) -$200
Shih Tzu total Initial cost : $450- 700 or $800-$1050, if you go with all the other school/obedience stuff.

Monthly upkeep costs
$17.99 For small dogs. Varies on dog size and type of brand, for this I chose Royal Canin.

Other upkeep costs
Vet - depends on the vet and dog.


Hope this helps show you how cheap it is to buy and keep a Ball Python.

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Privacy Policy

Short version : Have to put this up because I have adsense on this website. Means you won't get spammed by this site.

Long version :

I respect your privacy and I am committed to safeguarding your privacy while online at this site ballpythonpetcare.blogspot.com The following discloses how I gather and disseminate information for this Blog.

RSS Feeds and Email Updates

If a user wishes to subscribe to my RSS Feeds or Email Updates, I ask for contact information such as name and email address. Users may opt-out of these communications at any time. Your personal information will never be sold or given to a third party. (You will never be spammed by me - ever)

Log Files and Stats

Like most blogging platforms I use log files, in this case Statcounter. This stores information such as internet protocol (IP) addresses, browser type, internet service provider (ISP), referring, exit and visited pages, platform used, date/time stamp, track user’s movement in the whole, and gather broad demographic information for aggregate use. IP addresses etc. are not linked to personally identifiable information.

Cookies

A cookie is a piece of data stored on the user’s computer tied to information about the user. This blog doesn't use cookies. However, some of my business partners use cookies on this site (for example - advertisers). I can't access or control these cookies once the advertisers have set them.

Links

This Blog contains links to other sites. Please be aware that I am not responsible for the privacy practices of these other sites. I suggest my users to be aware of this when they leave this blog and to read the privacy statements of each and every site that collects personally identifiable information. This privacy statement applies solely to information collected by this Blog.

Advertisers

I use outside ad companies to display ads on this blog. These ads may contain cookies and are collected by the advertising companies and I do not have access to this information. I work with the following advertising companies: Google Adsense . Please check the advertisers websites for respective privacy policies.

Ball Python Bite. How do I get bitten?

How do I get a Ball Python bite?

Follow these simple rules, and you will get a Ball Python bite in no time lol (Obviously, if you want to avoid getting a Ball Python bite, just do the opposite)

Some tips to on How to get yourself a Ball Python Bite:

Tip 1 Don't wear gloves while feeding your Ball Python.

Tip 2 HAND FEED your Ball Python. Dangle a rat infront of him and expect your ball python not to bite you.

Tip 3 Handle a rat before you handle your Ball Python, that'll surely confuse your Ball python and you'll surely get a snake bite eventually.

Tip 4 Harass your Ball Python. Flashy lights, ball pythons hate those, or at least one of mine does. He hates the camera flash and strikes at it. Poking your Ball Python with a stick also helps.

Tip 5 Let a kid throw your Ball Python around and treat it like a toy.


Here's how to AVOID a Ball Python bite:

Tip 1 Wear gloves or just drop the mouse or rat in the Ball Python's Habitat and let it hunt. There really is no need to hand feed a living mouse or rat to your Ball Python. No benefit whatsoever. If you're worried they'll get bit by the prey, always have a chopstick, spoon anything you can lodge between the prey's mouth while it is being constricted(usually less than a minute and they are dead).

Tip 2 If you have to dangle a mouse or rat infront of your Ball Python, tongs. ALWAYS use tongs when dangling prey! They sense heat, and you are hotter than the prey, so obviously it'll strike at you. They only strike when they smell their prey, so if you just want to handle your Ball Python, you shouldn't be afraid to get bitten, unless you smell like a mouse/rat/gerbil etc. If it's a live mouse or rat, just let your Ball Python hunt it, no need to dangle it infront of him.

Tip 3 Wash your hands before and after handling your Ball Python pet to remove any scent of prey, to avoid him confusing you for a prey item.

Tip 4 Learn to read your Ball Python's body language, know when he's stressed and about to strike.When you see the "S" form, it means stay the hell away from me. One of my Ball Pythons hate flashy lights, and he gets ready to strike whenever a camera goes off, he's in permanent S form after two or three flashes, it's kinda funny. Avoid excessive handling, Ball Pythons don't enjoy handling, they just tolerate it. By excessive I mean an hour plus, once your Ball Python is already used to daily handling.

Tip 5 Don't leave your Ball Python, or any kind of snake, with kids if they are unsupervised. You never know with snakes. Ball Pythons are wild, although they tolerate us, Ball Pythons can still strike at you anytime, so best not leave your Ball Python alone with someone who can't defend themselves, or panic and kill your Ball Python because it gave out a warning strike.


Some Ball Python bite videos (that you should not follow, unless you want to get a ball python to bite you)





This girl obviously followed tips 1 and 2 on how to get your Ball Python bite. And FYI, poisonous is the wrong term for snakes, they should be called venomous.





Here's an example of tip 3 on how to get your Ball Python to bite. Although this is not a Ball Python, it still works for all snakes. Rat scented warm hand + Ball Python = bite.




Here's a 2-2.5 foot MAX Ball Python biting and constricting a girl. Watch her over react and call the police. "Big Snake Bites and Wraps around Woman" right. It's a TWO FOOT BALL PYTHON! Jesus..



So what should I do then if my Ball Python bites me? If your Ball Python bites you and coils around you, you should wait a few minutes for him to unwrap himself, or if your Ball Python doesn't, calmly unwrap your Ball Python by holding on to it's tail and unwrapping from there. Here's how you should handle a Ball Python bite. (Not a ball python, but still applies)




Now THAT is how to react to a Ball Python bite, not like that woman from the other video. This is even longer than that 2 foot Ball Python in the previous video. Go Steve Irwin!

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Ball Python Feeding Video 1



Ball Python feeding video.

Warning : If you don't like feeding your Ball Python with live mice or rats, do not watch this Ball Python feeding video.

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Essential Ball Python Supplies

Here's a list of some essential Ball Python supplies that you will need to create the perfect Ball Python enclosure. You could go print out this page to make a checklist, or have them delivered to your home straight from pet supply websites. I suggest you only buy Ball Python pet supplies from petshops, not actual Ball Pythons, no offense to any petshop owners, but most petshop Ball Pythons are in very poor health.



(click to enlarge)
Natural look integrates into any type of terrarium. Steps prevent crickets and terrarium animals from drowning Non-porous and smooth surface will not absorb harmful bacteria. Made from food grade resin that's very stable and easy to clean.

Big enough water dish for baby Ball pythons(or larger Ball Pythons for the larger dish) to soak in, also a good if you need to raise humidity in your Ball Python's Enclosure. Just put under your heat lamp or near your undertank heater to raise humidity levels. This is a must have, if you don't care about looks, then you can just use ordinary dog dishes or containers.


Exo-Terra® Water Dish - X-Large

(click to enlarge)

Exo-Terra&reg Water Dish - X-Large
Exo terra's Water Dishes have a very natural and realistic rock finish on the outside and a smooth non-pitted surface on the inside. The bowls are coated to prevent the development of harmful bacteria and make it easy to clean. The neutral natural colour allows easy integration in desert, tropical or any type of terrarium. Smaller reptiles, amphibians and insects can easily escape out of the Water Dish by the 'safety steps' inside the bowl to prevent drowning. Natural look integrates in any type of terrarium Easy to clean Steps prevent crickets and terrarium animals from drowning Non-porous and smooth surface will not absorb harmful bacteria Made from food-grade resin Very stable, not easily tipped over by larger reptiles X-Large Water Dish measures approximately 10" x 8" x 3" (L x W x H).




(click to enlarge)
All Living Things&reg Round Hygrometer
An easy and accurate way to measure the humidity in your reptile's habitat. Includes one self-adhesive hygrometer. Installation Instructions: Clean a small area on the wall inside the habitat where you would like to attach the hygrometer to measure the humidity. Peel the protective label off the adhesive pad and press the hygrometer firmly onto the habitat wall. It's a good idea to put the gauge in an easily visible place. Note: Misting may be required to maintain proper habitat humidity.


Essential for Ball Python enclosures, not knowing how the humidity levels in your Ball Python enclosure causes stress, shedding in patches and retained eye caps.


All Living Things? Thermometer & Hygrometer Combo

(click to enlarge)

Includes one Thermometer and one Hygrometer. To use, simply clean a small area in the habitat, peel the protective label off the adhesive pad and press the thermometer and hygromemeter onto the habitat wall.

Thermometer and hygrometer combo. Both essential. If you own a temperature gun, then you don't need this thermometer, as the temp gun is way more accurate.


T-Rex® Terra Tube for Frogs, Snakes & Lizards

(click to enlarge)

Natural wood log cut in half lengthwise into a tube shape. Creates a hiding place and refuge for your frog, snake or lizard. Promotes healthy shedding. Misting promotes surface moss growth. Ideal for naturalistic vivariums to provide native habitat and security. Available in Small & Medium sizes.

Approximate Dimensions: Small - 7"L x 6"W x 2"H Medium - 7"L x 8.5"W x 3"H

Perfect Ball Python hide, also looks good in a well built Ball Python Enclosure. I suggest you buy an appropriate size for your Ball Python, tighter it is, the more your Ball Python will feel secure.


Zilla Fresh Air Screen Cover With Center Hinge

(click to enlarge)

These Fresh Air terrarium covers are designed specifically for the unique needs of reptile environments. Constructed of tough metal mesh to withstand the clawing of the largest pets while providing the healthy oxygen exchange cold-blooded reptiles need. Perfect for habitats that require frequent access, the hinged hood allows entry without the need to lift a lighting hood. Black mesh stands up to the high temperatures heating bulbs generate. Long lasting black steel frame keeps its shape through years of daily use. Features: Allows essential air flow in reptile terrariums Hinge eases use with lighting hoods Withstands high temperatures from heating devices Hinged for easy access, built for solid security

You need a secure fitting top like this, don't worry too much about the vents, that can easily be covered with a towel. Choose an appropriate size for your Ball Python Enclosure.


Stone Cave with Ledge Ornament

(click to enlarge)

Stone Cave with Ledge Ornament
Crafted authentic stone design features a deep cave that provides an ideal chamber for fish & reptiles to explore. Made of durable and poly-resin. Safe for all freshwater & saltwater aquariums, terrariums & reptile environments. Dimensions: 10"L x 7"W x 10"H.

Another Ball Python Hide, I still like the natural wood log more, but this would look awesome under the heat lamp, making it a basking spot and hot hide, just to give your Ball Python enclosure variety.


ESU Reptile Bark Bends

(click to enlarge)

There's almost nothing a reptile enjoys more than basking near a heat source, that's why they love Bark Bends. They give reptiles close access to the heat for basking, yet allow them to descend quickly to ground level cover. Bark Bends are handcrafted of from non-toxic resin with natural looking colors and textures; they're long-lasting and easy to clean.

Another hide preferably for the hot side/basking area of your Ball Python's enclosure. Fits well with the other wood log hide, and makes a perfect basking area. For those that want to keep your Ball Python's enclosure in theme. Be sure to pick the appropriate size.


Zoo Med Repti Bark

(click to enlarge)

ZooMed Repti Bark Cage Litter is an ideal substrate for humid terrariums because of its ability to absorb and release moisture to assist in regulating humidity. It conducts and evenly distributes heat and encourages natural burrowing and digging activity. And it's economical, too! Soak in hot water every 2-3 months to clean and freshen; replace with new bark at least once a year, or when heavily soiled.

Besides newspaper, this is the only substrate (started with shredded coconut bark) I used for my Ball Python's enclosure. It's good at maintaining humidity, and honestly just looks good because I think it complements the normal Ball Python morph. Plus it smells great.


ZooMed Repti-Therm Under Tank Heaters

(click to enlarge)

ZooMed Repti-Therm Under Tank Heaters are an excellent primary heat source for temperate, terrestrial reptiles and as a secondary heat source for tropical and desert reptiles. The heaters permanently adhere to your terrarium, forming a solid bond for better heat transfer. They contain a solid state nichrome heating element and are UL/CUL approved. Heaters range from 4 to 24 watts and cost almost nothing to operate. Includes rubber feet to slightly elevate your terrarium to allow excess bottom heat to escape. Additional Information For Terrarium use only. Not for aquariums. For indoor use only. For use on glass terrariums only. Do not use on wood, plastic, acrylic or any other type of terrarium except those made of glass. Can be used with a thermostat and/or in conjunction with an additional heat source for higher temperature species. Full one year manufacturer's warranty. Great for use with temperate, terrestrial reptiles such as king snakes, corn snakes, gopher snakes, rat snakes, many geckos, some amphibians, small skinks, small nocturnal lizards etc. Use as a secondary/night time heat source for tropical and desert reptiles such as boas, pythons, bearded dragons, iguanas, turtles, tortoises, monitors, etc.

T-Rex Cobra Heat Pads

(click to enlarge)

The favorite heat pad of European herp owners is now available in America. Cobra Heat Mats warm your reptile and his surroundings just like the sun and are excellent for use at night. Flexible and durable, these mats are made of reliable, accurate copper elements. They provide uniform, evenly distributed heat at a constant 100&deg F. T-Rex Cobra Heat Mats are perfect for use with all reptile and amphibian species. For heating most snake species and invertebrates, T-Rex Cobra Heat Mats are excellent as the sole heat source. Ideal for glass or acrylic aquariums. How Heat Mats Work T-Rex Cobra Heat Mats are made from incredibly reliable and accurate copper elements. They produce ultra-long wavelength infrared heat that tends to heat furnishings in the cage rather than the air. Similar to the sun, this method of heating has the ability to heat anything that it strikes while maintaining a low air temperature. Heat mats provide a very gentle warmth, which the animal can sit under or on top of. Used under normal conditions, the mats cannot burn the animal.

Alternative to using heating bulbs, heat rocks should NEVER be used as an alternative heat sourse, only heating bulbs and under tank heaters


ZooMed Repti Basking Spot Lamp

(click to enlarge)

Put your reptile in the spotlight with this unique, patented double reflector that focuses 35% more heat and light into a tight beam for better basking. Provides the UVA rays that are beneficial to the psychological well-being of all reptiles. Lasts approximately 2,000 hours with average use.

Select the appropriate wattage for your Ball Python enclosure, I can't give you any exact watt because I don't know where you're from.


ZooMed Stainless Steel Feeding Tongs

(click to enlarge)
These 10" long stainless steel tongs are an ideal and hygienic way of giving food items to your reptile, bird or fish.

You DEFINITELY need this. Especially those who are terrified of getting bit by their Ball Python, this easily saves you from being mistaken as the prey item when dangling that rat.


Exo Terra Repti Heat Incan

(click to enlarge)
This porcelain clamp lamp with glow reflector provides a long-lasting luminous, reflective glow. It gives you the versatility of placing heat or light where needed. Sturdily constructed with a metal reflector, heat-resistant 150-Watt ceramic socket, and a spring loaded swivel head clamp.The inside of the reflector has a highly reflective coating that continues to glow after the lamp is turned off. Ideal for use with all types of incandescent light bulb or ceramic heat emitters. Available in 3 different sizes.
A fixture for your bulb, pick the appropriate size for the top of your Ball Python enclosure


T-Rex Black Heat Lamp

(click to enlarge)

High -quality T-Rex lights replicate your reptile's natural environment. All bulbs have a brass base, a built-in heat shield, and last an average of 2000 hours.

Heat lamp which doesn't emit any light. Should be used at night to give your Ball Python 12/12 cycle if you are not using an undertank heater. Select the appropriate wattage and remember it should be less than your day light heat bulb.



Ball Python Feeding tips

Some tips you can follow when your Ball Python is refusing to eat. Be sure to have read the feeding section of the Ball Python care guide before reading these tips.

When you feed your Ball Python pre killed food items, make sure to feed it as soon as you kill the mice or rat. You do this by leaving it for a few minutes in hot water AND NOT BY MICROWAVING THEM. When done heating, you wave it back and forth infront of the entrance of his hide using your snake tongs, NEVER use your hands when dangling food items infront of your Ball Python. That is a sure way to get bit as your hand is much more hotter and a bigger target than the mice or rat. Remember that they are nocturnal snakes, and most active at night, so feed your Ball Python at night.

If your Ball Python kills live prey, or takes pre killed and coils around them but does not eat, try closing all your lights, or cover the Ball Python Habitat with a sheet of cloth.

If all of the above fails for your Ball Python, try putting a live Gerbil in your Ball Python's habitat. If he still refuses, take your Gerbil (not with your hands) and save it for the next feeding day. You can also kill it and freeze it if you don't want to take care of Gerbils. Wait a week, heat the frozen gerbil, and repeat the steps above and feed your Ball python.

When your Ball Python starts feeding on gerbils, you can try rubbing gerbils on mice or rats to scent them and "trick" your Ball Python into feeding on mice or rats.

The day before your next feeding day, put a live gerbil, or whatever prey your Ball Python has previouly taken in the same room as him or her, to scent the room and get your Ball Python interested.

The brown paper bag trick. Put your Ball Python in a paper bag, shoe box, any small container with your mice, rat or gerbil and leave him there for a few hours. Check every so often to see if your Ball Python has eaten the food item.

If all those don't work for you, try putting crumpled balls of newspaper in your Ball Python's habitat to make him feel more secure. Skipping a few weeks of feeding is no big deal, Ball Pythons can last months with no food, as long as you provide some water.

Move the Ball Python habitat to a quiet room, if you have not already done so.

Ball Python still not eating? Then it's time for a vet check. You need fecal sample to give to your local vet. Also force feeding your Ball Python is VERY stressful to both you and your Ball Python. DO NOT FORCE FEED YOUR BALL PYTHON, get a vet to do it for you since you're reading this and probably have no experience.

Make sure your temperatures and humidity levels are all correct, see the Ball Python Care guide to make sure, do not guess.

Monday, November 17, 2008

Are Ball Pythons safe for kids?



Ball python attacks kid! (not really)



This is how laid back Ball Pythons are. Cute little kid with his Ball Python.


Little girl bringing her Ball Python to show and tell. "he waps awaound the victim" lol




Don't let ignorant people tell you that snakes are slimy and evil. They are great pets, read more on How to take care of your Ball Python pet here.

If you are still thinking of buying a Ball Python, click here to find out why the Ball Python is the best beginner snake.

Ball Python Bite videos

Some Ball Python Videos of people getting bit.







Here's a guy who got bit on the finger by a little Ball Python named Marvin. It doesn't hurt that much looking at his Ball Python's size, maybe he's just sensitive, but what he said about "try not to move away quickly, you could damage their fangs" is correct. Ball Python's teeth curve inward, to help pull prey in, so if you pull against that, it will cause you to bleed more, and you might pull out your Ball Python's teeth. Just let your Ball Python let go on it's own.





This has go to be the funniest video I have ever seen. Baby Ball Python swallowing finger of boy. He must have handled a rat before the handling the Ball Python, since it confused his finger for a mouse.


The same kid getting his finger eaten by his Ball Python. lol


If you enjoyed these Ball Python videos, take some time to read the Ball Python FAQ or Ball Python Pet Care guide.

Sunday, November 16, 2008

Best Beginner Snake

No doubt, Ball Pythons are one of the best beginner snakes, if not the best beginner snake. If you're thinking about purchasing your first snake, take some time to read about the history of the Ball Python.

Why Ball Pythons make good beginner/first snakes:

They make the best beginner snakes because don't grow big, average for adults is up to 3-4 feet, which may sound big but when you handle one yourself, you'll find they are quite manageable.

They make the best beginner snakes because they are small constrictors. They only prey on creatures smaller than them. Mostly mice/rat size.

They make the best beginner snakes because instead of striking at you, they would rather curl up into a ball, hence the name "Ball Python".

They make the best beginner snakes because they are non-venomous snakes!

They make the best beginner snakes because they don't require a lot of space, attention, and are easy to maintain. Daily water changes, spot cleaning their enclosure.

They make the best beginner snakes because they eat once every 1 to 2 weeks, depending on age.

They make the best beginner snakes because they only poop once a month! Compare that to having a dog.

They make the best beginner snakes because they tolerate handling, perfect if you want to introduce kids to snake keeping. A perfect "show and tell" pet.

They make the best beginner snakes because they are available almost anywhere, at a cheap price. ($50-100 for normal Ball pythons).

They make the best beginner snakes because there are tons of morphs to choose from when you ever decide to expand your collection and get more Ball pythons.

They make for perfect beginner snakes because once you're familiar with them and decide you want to breed Ball Pythons, they can potentially pay for themselves, and you could start making decent money if you choose to breed the rarer types of Ball Pythons.


If you have made up your mind or want more information about Ball Pythons, click here to see the Ball Python Care guide, or some Ball Python FAQs.

Ball Python FAQ

If you have any Ball Python questions, feel free to post or contact me to have them answer and added to the Ball Python FAQ list.

List of
Ball Python Frequently Asked Questions.

Why does my Ball Python refuse to eat?

What sex is my Ball Python?

My Ball Python keeps leaving some pieces of skin/eye caps when he sheds, is this normal ball python shedding?

Why does my Ball Python keep opening its' mouth a lot after meals? Is he still hungry?

What do the following mean? (WC,CB,CH LTC and 1.0.0)

How big will my Ball Python get?

What kind of bulb for heating my Ball Python's enclosure should be used?

How should I check if I have the right temperatures in different areas of the enclosure?

Will my Ball Python bite me? What should I do if my Ball Python bites me?

How many Ball Pythons can I keep together?

Is it normal for my Ball Python to stay under the heat lamp all day?

Where can I buy ball python books?



Answers

Why does my Ball Python refuse to eat?


There could be numerous reasons why your Ball Python is refusing to eat. Please read this Ball Python Pet Care guide to see if you meet the living conditions a Ball Python needs to remain stress free. If you have the temperature and humidity all correct, and you gave your Ball Python a one week acclimation period, then chances are your Ball Python is wild caught and very stressed out right now. Please read "Tips on how to get my Ball python to eat". Don't panic as this is normal behavior for a Ball Python in the wild, they can go months without food and still be fine, as long as there is water. If worse comes to worst and you have to force feed, please take your Ball Python to a reptile vet near your area to avoid further stressing your Ball python.





What sex is my Ball Python?

You will have to take your Ball Python to the vet to have it probed. Male Ball Pythons have longer anal spurs than females. Probing doesn't cost a lot, so do not attempt to probe your Ball Python yourself. If you know any experienced snake keepers, ask them to either probe or pop it for you.

Check out my post titled "Where is my ball python's ass?", it has a video showing how to determine ball python sex. Click here for the Ball Python video.





My Ball Python keeps leaving some pieces of skin/eye caps when he sheds, is this normal ball python shedding?

If your Ball Python keeps having bad sheds, that means your humidity is too low. I would not recommend removing the eye caps yourself, it may not look pretty having a Ball Python that hasn't fully shed it's skin/eye caps, but it really isn't a big deal since Ball Pythons rely more on smell and have bad eye sight anyway. Increase the humidity inside your Ball Python's enclosure and give him or her more warm baths. Your Ball Python's next shed will remove the eye caps for you, instead of trying to use cotton swabs or even your fingers, which could possibly stress your Ball Python even more.





Why does my Ball Python keep opening its' mouth a lot after meals? Is he still hungry?

NO! Do not overfeed your Ball Python. Ball Pythons open their mouth or "yawn" to realign their jaws. Sometimes Ball Pythons just yawn because they want to, which looks really cute, and you should have your camera ready :)





What do the following mean? WC,CB,CH LTC and 1.0.0

WC means Wild Caught Ball Pythons, try not to buy one of these, as they are usually in very poor living condition because of all the stress they went through and possible parasites that they come with.

CB can mean Captive Bred or Captive Born Ball Pythons. These are the best Ball Pythons you can get, well established, regularly feeding Ball Pythons.

CH means Captive Hatched Ball Pythons, which are most likely the ones being sold at pet shops. Can be decent, but it depends on what pet shop you buy from.

LTC means Long Term Captive, self explanatory, quality of the Ball Python depends on where/who kept him or her. Sometimes can be decent, sometimes as bad as WC.

Male = 1.0
Female = 0.1
Unknown sex = 0.0.1

So if I say I have 2.4.1, that means I have 2 male ball pythons, 4 female ball pythons, and 1 unknown.

If I say I have 50.200.0, it means someone should save me because I'm addicted to Ball Pythons. ( They really are addicting, I'm not even kidding )



How big will my Ball Python get?

Average size of a Ball Python is 3-4 feet, five being rare.





What kind of bulb for heating my Ball Python's enclosure should be used?

It's very difficult to give you an exact bulb to use, because we all come from different countries and have different climates, temperature inside our homes, living conditions etc. It is best that you yourself test this.





How should I check if I have the right temperatures in different areas of the enclosure?

Temperature guns or digital thermometers that have various probes that can be placed at specific spots are best for monitoring the temperature inside your Ball Python's enclosure. Avoid stick on thermometers as these are not accurate.





Will my Ball Python bite me? What should I do if my Ball Python bites me?

Ball pythons are generally docile snakes, although Ball pythons are not known for their aggressiveness, all snakes do bite. Nothing to be afraid of, Ball Pythons will rarely bite when they feel they are in danger (they would rather ball up, hence the name Ball Python). A feeding response may also trigger a bite. If you spend enough time to learn to read your Ball Pythons behavior or body language, bites will be very very rare. It's the anticipation that you will get bit that is frustrating, you may even want to get bit on purpse (like me the first couple of years).

Ball Pythons RARELY bite, I have had ball pythons for 6 and a half years, and have only been bitten thrice. Take into account that I have five Ball Pythons. Only one of the two Ball pythons that bit me has really bitten me, the other one I tricked into biting me. I did that to get over the "OMG I'M GOING TO GET BIT BY MY BALL PYTHON". I did that by handling a rat with my hand before feeding my Ball Python, then waving it infront of it's hide. I counted 6 seconds then BAM. It bit, held on for a few seconds, then quickly released in time with me jerking my hand away. It was fast and it bled, but it didn't hurt. I was more surprised than hurt. It did bleed alot, and I would compare it to having a shot from a doctor, but faster.

What I learned is, never pull away from your Ball python when they bite, they will let go on their own when they realize you aren't prey and are too big for them to eat. If you do pull away, get ready for lots of blood lol. After being bit, just wash/soap/disinfect like any other wound.





How many Ball Pythons can I keep together?

None. One Ball Python per enclosure, unless you are planning to breed them. If you keep your ball pythons together, they will get stressed, they might become aggressive towards each other.






Is it normal for my Ball Python to stay under the heat lamp all day?

If you provided two hides in your Ball Python Cage, and your ball python always just stays in the hot side, your temperatures might be too low. If your temps are all fine, and your ball python is eating properly, then you shouldn't worry too much.

Is he outside the hides and is directly under your heating lamp? Then maybe your temperatures are all wrong and you need a higher wattage bulb.



Where can I buy ball python books?

Check out this post about Ball Python books with links on Ball Python Care books, Ball Python breeding books, and ball python morph books.





Click here for the Ball Python Pet Care guide
Click here for a brief overview on Ball Python History

Friday, November 14, 2008

Ball Python Pet Care Guide

Some important details you should know BEFORE buying your Ball Python pet.


Ball Python Habitat
Ball Python Substrate
Ball Python Hides
Selecting your Ball Python!
Ball Python Habitat Temperature
Ball Python Humidity
Ball Python Water Source
Ball Python Feeding
Ball Python Daily Maintenance
Enjoy your Ball Python

Selecting an escape proof cage


Even before buying your Ball Python, you should already have an ESCAPE PROOF CAGE! Either purchase a prebuilt escape proof Ball Python habitat, or get a glass tank with a screen top that LOCKS or any sort of mechanism that will prevent your Ball Python from pushing it off. Ball Pythons are very strong snakes, you CAN'T just put a couple of book on the screen/glass that you have covering the top. Don't learn this the hard way and then end up losing your Ball python. All snakes are great at escaping, if their heads fit, you can be certain the whole body will squeeze right through that tiny hole you forgot to cover.

Ball Python tanks aren't expensive, you will only ever need a maximum of 30 gallons (for those large female Ball Pythons). You could also choose to use tupperware or rubber tubs that are big enough for your Ball Python. Ball Python hatchlings only require a 10-15 gallon tank. General rule when purchasing a Ball Python Habitat for your Ball Python is that the length of your cage should be equal to or at least half the length of your Ball Python.

Bigger habitats tend to stress out Ball Pythons. If you want to save money, you could buy a larger Ball Python habitat and occupy the extra space by putting in some boxes.

Back to Ball Python topics

Selecting what substrate to use

There are a few choices, but the most convenient choice is good old newspaper. If you want a more decorative substrate, try to stay away from pine, aspen, cedar or anything that can get stuck in their mouths while they are eating. You could feed your Ball Python outside their cage, but newspaper is still the best substrate when it comes to ease of cleaning and maintenance. Astro turf or carpet is a close second, having two or three sheets cut to fit the bottom of your Ball Python's habitat will make your job easier. You will need to clean your cage every time your Ball Python poops (they poop as much as you feed them, so once or twice a week). Simpler the substrate and decorations in your Ball Python's habitat, the easier it is to maintain.

Back to Ball Python topics

Picking a suitable hide

Ball Pythons love hiding. It's what keeps Ball Python's stress free. Be sure to pick a hide that fits snuggly around your Ball Python. Ball Pythons prefer to feel it wrapped around them as opposed to a roomy hide. Whatever hide will do, you can pick one that looks visually appealing to you, just make sure that it isn't see through and it isn't too big for your Ball Python. They enjoy hiding during the daylight hours, since Ball Pythons are nocturnal animals.

Back to Ball Python topics

Selecting your Ball Python!

Select a Ball Python hatchling (or adult) that has clear looking and firm scales, stocky round body shape, clean nostrils and eyes. A healthy Ball Python will be flicking it's tongue when handled, as that is one of the ways they detect what is around them. A lot of baby Ball Pythons are instinctively head shy, meaning they will jerk or try to move away when you touch their heads, or if you're lucky, you might get to play with a Ball Python in..Ball form lol. When being handled, the Ball Python should have a firm and gentle grip around your hand or arm. You should notice the tongue flicking around a lot more when not in their cage, an unhealthy Ball Python will seem very sluggish and unresponsive. Keep a look out for an attentive, active Ball Python.

The first thing you should do, after setting up your Ball Python's habitat, is to put your new Ball Python in his cage and leave him alone for at least one week. This is the time for your Ball Python to get acclimated, you have to resist the urge to pick him up and handle him as when you first get your Ball Python he will be very nervous and stressed. It's really tempting to start handling and show off your Ball Python, but you have to resist it for at least a week.

Back to Ball Python topics

Temperature

The background temperature inside your Ball Python's habitat should be maintained at around 80°F, never below 75°F, with a basking spot of 88-90°F ( a tiny bit more or less is okay ). Buy two thermometers, one for the ground area, and one placed at the basking area. You really need a basking area, that's the only way a Ball Python can digest it's food.

DO NOT EVER USE HEAT ROCKS is the only thing I need to emphasize. Heat sources for your Ball Python habitat should be through heat lamps, pads, and nothing that your Ball Python can directly come in contact with and burn him/herself on.

Back to Ball Python topics

Humidity

You will need a hygrometer for checking humidity. Ball Pythons require at least 50% humidity, raise humidity by adding a bigger water bowl, misting if you have mold resistant substrate such as cypress mulch, or adding a "humid hide" if your Ball Python has problems shedding. If your Ball Python leaves his eye caps on when he sheds, DO NOT attempt to remove them yourself, you may just make matters worse. You should just leave it alone to fall off on it's own. The most you should do is give your Ball Python more warm baths, and keep his habitat at around 60-65% humidity while also providing a humid hide for your Ball Python to use.

Back to Ball Python topics

Providing Water

You will need to provide your Ball Python with fresh water everyday. That's the bulk of the work involved in keeping a Ball Python, making sure your Ball Python has fresh water everyday along with replacing the newspaper/substrate if soiled. If the water bowl you provided is big enough, you might see your Ball Python soaking. Your Ball Python is either feeling too hot, or trying to get rid of mites. Be sure to check for mites if you see your Ball Python in his bowl often.

Back to Ball Python topics

Feeding your new Ball Python

Once the one week acclimation period is over, you can begin your Ball Python's first feeding session. You can start your Ball Python hatchling with a prekilled (if he eats it) week old fuzzy mouse, if your Ball Python is 12 inches or longer. Smaller Ball Python hatchlings may require a younger fuzzy mouse (5 days or younger). The rule is, never feed your Ball Python something overly bigger or thicker than the thickest part of your Ball Python's Body. If he refuses to eat anything frozen thawed or prekilled, then you have to feed your Ball Python with live mice/rats.

To feed a prekilled/frozen thawed food item, you just drop it infront of the hide where he'll be able to see it. If that does nothing for your Ball Python, get a pair of snake tongs and wave it infront of the entrance of his hide. Hopefully, the mouse/rat will disappear faster than you can blink. It might surprise you to see(or not see) how fast your Ball Python strikes.

If that still doesn't get the attention of your Ball Python, then that means you have to feed him live. Feeding live CAN be dangerous to your Ball Python if left unsupervised. If your Ball Python doesn't take the food item you offered in 15 minutes, remove it cause rats have been known to actually KILL or injure Ball Pythons (yes, rats eat anything).

Baby Ball Pythons need to be fed once a week, adult(1 year+) Ball Pythons can be fed once every two weeks. Never Feed a Ball Python more than once a week.

Back to Ball Python topics

Daily maintenance

Always check if your Ball Python has fresh water, his habitat is clean, and the tempratures and humidity are correct. That's it. Every month, make sure to clean and disinfect his cage, dishes, and hides. If you use small substrate like cypress mulch, completely replace the entire substrate.

Don't forget to look for a vet near your area and bring your Ball Python for his/her annual checkup or to determine the sex of your Ball Python. Make sure to save your Ball Python's stool as sample to show to your vet when you visit.

Back to Ball Python topics

Enjoy your Ball Python

Please don't scare people with your new Ball Python Pet, they have enough bad rep from the media. Responsible Ball Python owners should always show people that they AREN'T the menacing evil monsters that the media portrays them to be. Ball Pythons are especially good at being "show and tell" kind of pets, as they tolerate handling very well, and are very docile snakes.

Daily handling will make your Ball Python get used to human contact, just remember to keep your Ball Python handling sessions short at first so your Ball Python does not get stressed.

Back to Ball Python topics

Click here for a brief overview on Ball Python History


Please make sure you read this Ball Python Pet Care Guide thoroughly before buying your very one Ball Python. No matter what people say, Pet Snakes are fun and fascinating to have.

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Ball Python History

History of the Python regius.
Common name Ball Python or Royal Python( in Europe).

Ball Pythons are a small, non-venomous species of python found in Africa. Ball Pythons are also the smallest of all African pythons, which makes them very good for people who are new to the hobby of keeping snakes. They are called "Ball Pythons" because they literally "ball up" as a defense mechanism when threatened.In the wild, they can be found in underground mammal burrows in savannahs or grasslands.

Ball Pythons reach lengths of 4 to 5 feet (5 being rare, even for the females who are bigger), males being the smaller of the two sexes. Ball Pythons have solid and stocky bodies, with a medium sized head. Both male and female Ball Pythons have anal spurs, with male Ball Pythons having the longer ones. Properly sexing a snake involves checking the length of the spurs through probing.

Important : always ask a vet or experienced hobbyist to sex your snake for you, DO NOT
attempt to probe your snake by yourself if you don't know what you are doing.

Here is a picture of a normal morph Ball Python from staugustinewildreserve.org



Their lifespan in captivity is around 20-40 years, with proper care. The longest living Ball Python recorded in captivity was 48 years old when she passed away.

In the wild, their natural prey are birds, small mammals, lizards, and sometimes other snakes. Wild caught Ball Pythons do not recognize some of the mice and rats being sold at pet shops, that's one of the reasons they refuse to eat. Ball Pythons like most other pythons can go MONTHS without food.

Ball Pythons are oviparous, which means they are egg layers. When a female Ball Python lays eggs, it wraps around them and will stay with them until they hatch. Sexual maturity is reached at around 3 plus years, also depending on the weight of the pythons.

When purchasing your Ball Python, always try to go with a breeder. Captive bred Ball Pythons are always better than wild caught Ball pythons. With a Captive bred Ball python, you'll have a better chance of getting a well established snake who regularly feeds, and you can avoid any parasites commonly found on wild caught Ball Pythons. Not only do captive bred Ball Pythons will make for better pets, you'll also help the Ball Pythons in the wild by not purchasing any of those commonly found in pet shops that usually are in poor health.

Once you have read enough about The Ball Python's history, don't forget to read the Ball Python Pet Care guide

About Ball Python Pet Care

This blog is all about Ball Pythons, and how to care for Ball.

One reason for me creating this blog is because I have been asked countless times by a lot of my friends and relatives why do I keep snakes? How do I take care of Ball Pythons? Are they dangerous? Do they cost a lot compared to having a dog or cat? Do Ball Pythons BITE??! (that being the most asked of them all lol )

Ball Pythons are amazing pets, they are easy to take care of, very docile and hardy animals. Out of the six years I have been keeping Ball Pythons, I have only been bitten thrice, and it's almost always my fault because my hand had the scent of it's food item, or other stupid feeding errors. AND A BITE FROM A BALL PYTHON DOES NOT HURT!! A puppy or a kitten's bite hurts more than a bite from my Ball Python. I guess part of the fear comes from the bad rep they get from the media. Snakes are not evil slimy creatures out to bite you. They aren't even slimy at all.

Hopefully after browsing through a couple of pages here in Ball Python Pet Care, you will have learned something new and helpful to you and your new Ball Python pet. If you're still planning to buy and don't have a Ball Python yet, I strongly suggest you keep doing what you're doing (researching), that's the first step in ensuring you'll have a happy, long lived lifetime companion. The oldest Ball Python in captivity was a female ball python who was reported to live up to forty eight years old.

Have fun reading and I hope this website helps you take care of your new pet, or helps you decide to get your own little Ball Python!

Click here for the Ball Python Pet Care guide
Click here for a brief overview on Ball Python History